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Sven

Changing the curve on a wood blade

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I know its something which seems to pretty simple but i honestly dont have ANY clue how to recurve a wood blade. I got one fine woodblade here but the curve is just disgusting AND illegal. I would never play this curve on the ice and i even dont know how it got that curvy, but i wanna recurve it and make it Druryish... At least i want to try, i hope it doesnt break when i try it the first time.

I dont have this screw-clamp.. thing.

Uh yeah, heres a pic:

694kbaff.jpg

^_^

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Yeah.

I just got too much time on my hands.. At least i left the hospital but i still cant leave the house and got a health insurance certificate until the end of November, so i gotta waste my time.. and i think i wasted it pretty good with this one. The curve is sick, i wanna make it straight as mack and open it up a litte near the toe. Going custom the funny way, hehe.

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For me the best way to recurve is in 2 steps. First you heat up slightly and evenly, lay the blade on the floor, step on it (slightly so the coating/fiber/whatever doesn´t crack) until it gives in. Basicaly flatten it as much as you can. Then place a heavier object on it so it stays flat until it´s cooled down a little. Say 15-30 minutes. Then heat up again and slowly curve to your preference. At best you start by the toe and then move towards the heel. I always used to step on the blade´s toe with the tip of my foot and then lift and twist the heel of the blade. The #1 accident happening on recurves is obviously the coating coming off but with this method it never happend to me. Then again I only made Havlat-Hossa-Hook´s so I don´t know how to do a Drury. :D

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Sven-

Straight as my customs? If you're doing that for possible customs I'd...damn, you probably don't have access to as much gear as people in the States. Damn. Well, what I did was find an old Hull Christian (presumably retail, it was virtually straight) and heated it up and put it under a door. I torqued the hell out of it to get some shovel and voila:

monikevl6.th.jpg

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For me the brand of the wood blade always made a big difference. I had good luck with curving christians as they were easy to do and it didnt seem to damage them. Sher woods and a few others did not last very long after being heated for me though.

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Christians and Easton pro returns have always been the ones that held up the best for me. Sher-Woods were disastrous because the laminate would bubble and peel right off the bat.

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Sven-

Straight as my customs? If you're doing that for possible customs I'd...damn, you probably don't have access to as much gear as people in the States. Damn. Well, what I did was find an old Hull Christian (presumably retail, it was virtually straight) and heated it up and put it under a door. I torqued the hell out of it to get some shovel and voila:

monikevl6.th.jpg

that almost looks like a 5 iron.

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Sven-

Straight as my customs? If you're doing that for possible customs I'd...damn, you probably don't have access to as much gear as people in the States. Damn. Well, what I did was find an old Hull Christian (presumably retail, it was virtually straight) and heated it up and put it under a door. I torqued the hell out of it to get some shovel and voila:

monikevl6.th.jpg

Oh damn the pic doesn't work... could you repost it? I'd like to see what we're talking about here. :)

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Sven-

Straight as my customs? If you're doing that for possible customs I'd...damn, you probably don't have access to as much gear as people in the States. Damn. Well, what I did was find an old Hull Christian (presumably retail, it was virtually straight) and heated it up and put it under a door. I torqued the hell out of it to get some shovel and voila:

monikevl6.th.jpg

Oh damn the pic doesn't work... could you repost it? I'd like to see what we're talking about here. :)

Have you ever seen a lob wedge?

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