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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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I have never been able to pull the blade out of a SE16.

That's because Easton does not use heat-reactive glue like other companies do. They use an epoxy that hardens and will simply heat up, but not go back to its more "liquid" state that allows you to simply yank the blade out. This is why Eastons require cutting and chiseling/dremeling as you found out.

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That's because Easton does not use heat-reactive glue like other companies do. They use an epoxy that hardens and will simply heat up, but not go back to its more "liquid" state that allows you to simply yank the blade out. This is why Eastons require cutting and chiseling/dremeling as you found out.

Some of the Easton sticks I have done do soften up at the tenon and come out fairly easy, but it varies from stick to stick. The next time I do one I will document with pics and post.

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Some of the Easton sticks I have done do soften up at the tenon and come out fairly easy, but it varies from stick to stick. The next time I do one I will document with pics and post.

I've done two Easton ST's so far, and heat helped a little bit, but as said before it doesn't let you just pull the blade out. I had a few pieces of the tenon that were stubborn and wouldn't come out, and blasting them with the heat gun seemed to soften the materials inside just enough for me to knock them loose.

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I've done two Easton ST's so far, and heat helped a little bit, but as said before it doesn't let you just pull the blade out. I had a few pieces of the tenon that were stubborn and wouldn't come out, and blasting them with the heat gun seemed to soften the materials inside just enough for me to knock them loose.

fully agree. it's not possible to pull the blade out from easton top sticks, just chiseling and knoching it out through the shaft.

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Searched all through this thread and couldn't find much.

Anyone have any luck with converting X60 OPS into shafts that will accept tapered blades? Bauer's monocomp technology and the shaft shape of the X60 leave me wondering if it can be done.

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Searched all through this thread and couldn't find much.

Anyone have any luck with converting X60 OPS into shafts that will accept tapered blades? Bauer's monocomp technology and the shaft shape of the X60 leave me wondering if it can be done.

I bought an X:60 OPS converted to a shaft from malcb33. It has worked out really well. Maybe he can tell you how it was done?

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Searched all through this thread and couldn't find much.

Anyone have any luck with converting X60 OPS into shafts that will accept tapered blades? Bauer's monocomp technology and the shaft shape of the X60 leave me wondering if it can be done.

I've converted X:60s to shafts. Just start low and cut a little bit at a time until the blades fits snugly. No real magic, but you'll likely need a plug when you're done.

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I didn't think this deserved it's own thread so I thought it would fall under this topic.

I have 2 RH sticks (One90 custom, S17 stock) and I plan on cutting the blade off the sticks and flip them and put a LH blade in them.

After reading in this thread I have some questions for all you guys:

Would you recommend that I cut the blade and flip it?

I noticed the "fuse point" is a noticeable line, would you recommend I just cut there and put a tapered blade there?

If I choose to not flip it and put the tapered at the same end, would it alter the flex?

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Found this brand new X60 in the trash after pickup today, guy snapped his blade in half...went home and made a couple cuts with a power saw and voila, new shaft/blade setup. Made the cut right through the "T" in Textreme, tapered blade with a little tape around the tenon and it fits perfect.

DSCN0687.jpg

DSCN0691.jpg

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Found this brand new X60 in the trash after pickup today, guy snapped his blade in half...went home and made a couple cuts with a power saw and voila, new shaft/blade setup. Made the cut right through the "T" in Textreme, tapered blade with a little tape around the tenon and it fits perfect.

And what about flex? How hard is it now? How long did you cut?

Edited by MilleniumFalcon

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Just my 2 cents : I successfully saved a broken dolomite HD 2009 "ops" (shaft was good only the blade was broken) just by reading the last pages of the thread.

1) Sandpaper the area around the fuse point, so you properly see it.

2) Cut precisely at the fuse point or slightly below toward the blade (the thing is to NOT cut in the shaft)

3) Drill right in the middle of the tenon left inside the shaft, then only some pieces of the tenon tightly attached to the inner walls of the shaft will remain.

4) To remove the left-overs, just use the heat gun, the pieces of tenon left inside will start to peel off the inner walls. Eventually grab and pull a peeled off part with a pliers and it should come out in one whole piece.

5) I just got a regular tapered dolomite blade non HD, it fitted perfectly. I would highly advise a DD blade (IF the taper is the same, cause I have no clue about that) even if it's heavier, the feel is much much better. I forgot how bad puckfeel-wise the original dolo blade was.

Something that occurred to me, in order to succeed the conversion, it's mandatory to have the right tools :facepalm:

After playing with it a few time, it'd say it feels like the kick point is even lower and it's not as balanced as before. But it's far from being a punishment (especially at 20bucks the blade).

Will upload some pics later.

Anyway thanks for the advices :wink:

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TOTALONE

Easiest conversion ever. I was lucky to made the first cut it at the right place! Just sawed 38mm below "E" in TOTAL ONE. There was a hole 13*29mm. I applied a piece of tape to make the tapered tenon fit tighter.

Now I have the perfect mid kick tapered shaft of 77 flex. (ok, not 77 because I had to cut 2" from top to adjust it) let's say 80 flex )))

3ecf01db657b.jpg

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140e226ac69f.jpg

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Nice job ! How does it feel now ?

The blade is a lot higher than the original one (you lost the tapered part) but I believe it's always like that when you converted a true ops into a 2 piece stick.

It feels pretty nice. I like the mid-kick, slappers are really good!

the blade is higher because this blade is kinda short (low kick blade Easton SE16 clone) so I lost just about 2" .

There is no reason to cut lower because it's to narrow for a tapered blade.

nadap015635406800231.jpg

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i have some pro stock G3 one95s that i want to convert to shafts. is there a rule of thumb place to start? like i know 4" from the bottom of the E in totalone is where you start on a TO shaft

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i have some pro stock G3 one95s that i want to convert to shafts. is there a rule of thumb place to start? like i know 4" from the bottom of the E in totalone is where you start on a TO shaft

start cutting even lower and then go until you get 13x26mm hole

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