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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

sniper_23

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Equipment

  • Skates
    NBH One95
  • Stick
    Bauer One95
  • Gloves
    Easton Pro
  • Helmet
    Bauer 5100
  • Pants
    Easton Pro
  • Shoulder Pads
    NBH Impact 400
  • Elbow Pads
    RBK 8K
  • Shin Pads
    RBK 8k
  • Hockey Bag
    NBH

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver, BC

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    ianc@telus.net
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  1. Not sure about the ones from PSHG but my team ordered a custom set of Synergy 800's in the CHI colour scheme and they are WAY better than the retail E-Pro's. The material, construction, and feel were much better on the 800's. They were also made in Canada.
  2. Just added the Chicago Easton Pro Stock gloves to the collection.
  3. Won't solve your problem but this is related to the 7K stick. Blade broke on my 7k so I matched it up with a warrior blade and drew a line where the tenon of the blade starts and cut the blade off there. I carefully thinned out each of the shaft walls with a metal file by hand and eventually the tenon fit in perfectly. It took a while but it was worth it as the performance is pretty much the same as the original OPS. Shaving down the shaft walls usually ends up in disaster. Yeah, the engineer in me thinks you're better off shaving down the tendon. The accountant in me thinks you're better off risking breakage to the cheaper piece (blade opposed to the shaft). Unless I'm misinterpreting. He might have meant he filed down the walls of the tendon of the old blade so that the new tendon would fit. I considered doing the same when I first cut my Synergy SL shaft at the fuse point and saw the old existing tendon firmly anchored to the shaft walls (and no top so I couldn't poke it out with rebar). I ended up just cutting the shaft where the tendon ended sacrificing a few inches of shaft. The problem I have with that shaft now, is though only smaller tendons fit (like the sherwood 950 wooden tapered blade that I've fallen in love with), the shaft dimensions seem to expand slightly from the entry point to were the tendons end so that there is a bit of wobble. I've poured some extra glue in there and added a strip of tape to try to help, but having the opening being smaller than further inside the shaft makes it rough to get it to fit tightly and get the tendon in there. I'm thinking that if I had managed to get the old tendon out, that it would fit snug. I'm not sure if I'm explaining myself correctly. I was shaving down the inside of the shaft wall. I know it probably wasn't the smartest thing to do but it was already broken so I figured I try something out to try and save the taper of the stick. The 7K or 7V? stick construction is not a fused shaft and blade so there was a lot of excess composite material inside the shaft when I cut the blade off. I figured I'd try to see if I could get a tapered blade in there without thinning the shaft walls too much and it worked.
  4. Won't solve your problem but this is related to the 7K stick. Blade broke on my 7k so I matched it up with a warrior blade and drew a line where the tenon of the blade starts and cut the blade off there. I carefully thinned out each of the shaft walls with a metal file by hand and eventually the tenon fit in perfectly. It took a while but it was worth it as the performance is pretty much the same as the original OPS. Hand Tools:
  5. It shouldn't take too long to adjust at all. Usually it takes 2-3 skates and you'll be comfortable again. I went from 272 on my old skates to 263s and now i'm on 263s with 2.1 steel.
  6. Skates: NBH Supreme One95 Pants: NBH XXV's, RBK Pro Stock MHP 520 Gloves: NBH Vapor XXXX Pro Helmet: NBH 5500 w/ Itech J-Cut Visor Shins: RBK 8K Shoulders: RBK 6k Sticks: Easton Stealth CNT Grip, NBH Pro Stock Vapor XXX Lite (Duncan Keith)
  7. Where on earth did you get those...been wanting them ever since I first saw the new color scheme for VAN. Hook a brotha up! Canucks Sale! I hope there are more at the next sale. This was pretty much the only pair in brand new condition.
  8. Not a wood blade - just the pictures were very orange. Its composite stick. I didn't have the luxury of using clamps when I was pulling this one out. I heated it up with my gas stove in the kitchen - then secured the shaft between my arm/legs and yanked it out with my other arm. I recall almost popping my shoulder out when the blade finally budged. I would recommend clamping it down on a table and pulling it out. :) No problem - I'm glad you find it useful. Not too sure but it has worked several times. It seems to make it easier. I think just breaking up the layer of resin where the blade/shaft meet helps just enough to pull it out. Like I said that stuff doesn't melt - you're basically forcing it out. This is simply foam for vibration. You can also use a tapered blade - line it up against the original blade and mark a line where the tenon should fit into the shaft.
  9. You can definitely pull the blades out of an R+. Here is the process I've used for 3 of these sticks. 1) Find the fuse point - the hairline crack near the bottom around the shaft 2) Cut about the depth of the shaft around the fuse point - this removes the epoxy/resin they use to fuse the shaft/blade together at the fuse point - you should be able to see the blade tenon at this point 3) Heat it up 4) Secure the shaft with some clamps and pull the blade out If that fails heat it up more and it will eventually come right out. interesting, so you took a hacksaw and started cutting around the fuse point until you hit the tenon. So after you heated it up and pulled out the blade, is it possible for you measure the length and width inside the shaft (is it 14 mm X 26 mm) ? Exactly 14mm by 26mm. Cutting around the the shaft made pulling the blades out easier for me. Actually here is a picture of the R+ blade I pulled out. The line at the bottom was where the fuse point was - It probably didn't pull out the 1st time so I cut an inch higher and it came out smoothly following the process I outlined above. The resin on the blade definitely doesn't melt like normal stick glue so you have to pull it with quite a bit of force before it comes out of the shaft.
  10. You can definitely pull the blades out of an R+. Here is the process I've used for 3 of these sticks. 1) Find the fuse point - the hairline crack near the bottom around the shaft 2) Cut about the depth of the shaft around the fuse point - this removes the epoxy/resin they use to fuse the shaft/blade together at the fuse point - you should be able to see the blade tenon at this point 3) Heat it up 4) Secure the shaft with some clamps and pull the blade out If that fails heat it up more and it will eventually come right out.
  11. My custom MIA gloves. Black Tufftek with orange carbon weave. MB22 14" Ryan Kesler's NBH XXX Gloves - Custom Vancouver Canucks Colors.
  12. Product: Synergy SE Non Grip (1)Pro-Stock McCabe, (2)Pro-Stock Pyatt Curve: (1)Slight Heel Open, (2)Moderate Heel Open Flex: Felt like 85 - no posted flex ratings on the sticks Height: 5'9" Weight: 180lbs Type: Ice Hockey Blade: The blade on the SE has good feel for the puck. It doesn't feel as stiff as other blades I've used. Passing and Shooting are great with this stick. Blade durability wasn't so great as both my SE's broke in the blade. Stick (1) got caught along the boards and the blade snapped in half, while stick (2) ended up splitting along the bottom of the blade. 8.5/10 Flex: As I posted above - there were no flex ratings on either sticks. They did feel very good in the flex department. They flexed a lot during slap shots but didn't feel like they were whipping out. The kick point also felt very low on the shaft so shots were very consistent and very hard. I noticed I was shooting harder right off the bat with both of these sticks. The SE's definitely shine in this area. 10/10 Weight and balance: The SE doesn't feel too light or too heavy. It seems to be balanced very well overall. I have no complaints in this area and never really thought about it when I was using them so that must be a good sign. 9/10 Durability: The performance of these sticks were very good. Shooting, passing, stick handling etc. are a breeze with the SE. Both the SE's I was using broke within 2 months of usage. Stick (1) was unfortunate - I broke it along the boards. I guess that is an unfair review since it was just a case of bad luck. Stick (2) was used about 20 times before the blade split along the bottom. It does seem that durability is a common issue with the SE after talking to some friends with similar problems. 7/10 Shooting/Passing: The SE definitely shines in the area of shooting. The stick flexes in the right places and shots rocket off the blade. My slap shot was immediately harder the first time I used this stick. Quick releases with snap shots and wrist shots were also a breeze. Passing felt good as well. The blade doesn't seem as stiff as other blades and taking hard passes is no problem at all with the SE. 10/10 Conclusion: The performance of this stick is very good. Shots are very hard and accurate. The stick has good balance and feels great on the ice. I would highly recommend the Synegy Elite if you don't have a problem with the price tag and some probable durability issues. 44.5/50
  13. sniper_23

    RBK 7k Sickick

    Product: RBK 7k Sickick Curve: Jagr Pro Stock LH - Mid-Heel with Very Open Toe Flex: Stiff Flex 45KP Height: 5'9" Weight: 180lbs Type: Ice Hockey Blade: Super stiff blade with OK feel. The puck just rockets off the blade during the first few sessions. Shots were accurate and hard but the blade doesn't compare to the feel from an XXX-lite. 8.5/10 Flex: I normally use 87 Flex Nike Bauer and 85 Flex Easton sticks so going to the stiff flex in the RBK was a change. It felt a little stiff at the beginning but the stick had a really good kick especially during snap shots and slap shots due to the low kick point in the shaft. It definitely felt excellent after I got adjusted to it. 9/10 Weight and balance: Feels lighter than it is which is great. People were surprised by how light it felt. On the ice it was balanced. It didn't feel too blade light or heavy - it was just right. 9/10 Durability: I purchased 2 pro-stock Jagr's and broke the 1st stick within the first 5 uses. It was absolutely shooting rockets but ended up breaking on a one-timer from the slot. The blade snapped in half right in the middle. I wasn't too pleased about that but the 2nd stick is still going strong. However it has lost its' feel for some reason and I have switched sticks because of that. The blade is still fairly stiff but the stick doesn't seem to generate the kick and power it used too. The 2nd stick has taken a ton of abuse - it has chips and nicks all over it but it is still in one piece. 7.5/10 Shooting/Passing: This stick definitely shines in this category. Shots were immediately harder and very accurate. The puck just rockets off the blade. As I said before my 1st stick broke within a few sessions and the 2nd stick seemed to lose its power/feel after about 15-20 sessions on the ice. It just seems dead and doesn't have the pop or the power it had when it was brand new. I enjoyed it while it lasted though. 9/10 Conclusion: I've used Dolomites, XXX-lites, SEs, SLs, to name a few OPS's and this stick definitely keeps up with the pack. I enjoyed the brilliant shots that this stick produced but it only lasted a short while. I would recommend this stick to people who don't have a big budget for sticks as you can find 7K's for fairly cheap now that the 9K's have been released. 43/50
  14. That CCM would look awesome with those old school Canucks jerseys.
  15. Helmet - Mission Intake Shield - Oakley Straight Cut Shoulders - RBK 6K Elbows - Jofa 9066 Gloves - Bauer SDP Supreme 5000 Pro Stock Jovanovski Pants - RBK 6K Shins - CCM Pro Tacks Skates - Vapor XXX Pro Stock Freisen Sticks - Vapor XXX Lite Pro Stock Pouliet RBK 7V Sickick Pro Stock Jagr Broken RBK 7V Sickick turned into tapered shaft w/v130 blade
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