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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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When you guys cut it right where you see the fuse line, is it possible to actually fit a sr.tapered balde in it? The opening seems really small.....If you can fit one in when you cut past the tennon on the OPS, how can you if you chisel the thing out?

Edited by kovalchuk71

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I just cut a synergy a few days ago and I fit my L-2 blade in perfectly. I cut it right on the "d" in "Pending". It was a great cut too, right at the fuse point I think because there's no blade or junk left in the shaft, and the end of the blade tenon (of the original synergy) is right at the end of where I cut it. If you don't get quite what I mean I could take some pics.

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That's not the fuse point, that's just where the blade tenon ends. The fuse point is where the shaft ends, which would be about 2 inches or so below where you cut.

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That's not the fuse point, that's just where the blade tenon ends. The fuse point is where the shaft ends, which would be about 2 inches or so below where you cut.

Thats what I mean....what would fit in the shaft if I cut directly at the fuse point?

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A Senior tapered blade should fit in a Senior OPS. In a fused OPS, they generally use the same shaft you can buy as a 2-piece, tapered shaft. (Synthesis shaft should be the same shaft that's used for a Synergy.)

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I pulled the blade out of my XX. Lots of heat, relatively no chiseling. Only tapered blade I can get in there are R2 blades. Ive tried Syn. and L2 and they are way to big. R2s go in with only a little bit of force. Best part is I didnt have to put an endplug in. Bad part is that the feel of the stick SUCKS. I cant get used to it. I think I just dont like Lville blades. Just not my thing.

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How do I get the divider thing out thats in the tennon of the blade?

How. Possibly 15 to 20 minutes of chiseling, or you can heat it up, place a flat head screw driver on the center of the tenon, and drive a hammer or rubber mallet (my preference- - the soft touch) right into the butt-end of the screwdriver. That should loosen the tenon into the shaft. . . oh, first step, take off the butt-end, or cap so that the other end of the shaft is open. Make sure you do this first. The heated up tenon should slide out.

Otherwise, start chiseling boy!

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Dont have one at the moment.....How does it look though....My first time i've ever done that :)

BTW, which tennon is smaller? A Jr standard or a Sr. tapered ?

Edited by kovalchuk71

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i used heat on my vapor XX worked great ... and a synthesis blade fit in perfectly! i was very happy... but when i broke my synergy earlier this year i cut it and the blades wouldnt fit in it i was unhappy

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York, I cut my R+ at the fuse point, maybe 1 cm above at the most, and just chisled (sp?) and chisled....................and chiseled (2 hours lol), works great!!!!! Just like new!

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First i'd like to say, yes I did search up the topic and did find a few posts on cutting tapered sticks (Fuse point) but i'm curious where abouts on a broken synergy you make the cut for a standard shaft? I heard on the "D" in "PENDING" on the shaft, but just want to confirm because I dont want to mess up my cut and toss out the shaft.

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Im not totally sure about this, but like on my M-1 I thought if you look really hard you should see a small line about an inch or 2 over the blade. Id start there and keep cutting up until you can fit a tapered blade. I am probbly not the best person for this as I have never done it. I eaither flip them or get a new one..............

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I cut my 04 Grip an inch below the last cresent moon thing at the bottom of the shaft (((E)))<--- while looking at the shaft from the side. I got a Synthesis hybrid to fit with no filling necissary. PS Use a hack saw.

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This is where I cut my standard Synergy to fit a non-tapered blade.Should fit fine.

hsceastonsynergylg5vm.jpg

EDIT:your gonna need a long butt extension.But after fitting it with a $20 wood blade and like a 5' wood butt end it was still lighter than a lot of sticks (Not OPS)

Edited by lecavalier

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I took the advice of flipping over the shaft and worked like a charm, chopped the blade off as soon as the width of the shaft was equal.. The top end of the shaft is a bit thin due to the taper, but the length is perfect for me without the end plug extenstion.. I know the shaft is going to lose it's effectiveness without the taper, but hey, it still works pretty decent.

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